Amber is best from the opposite bank. The whole fort reflects in Maota Lake when the light is soft. We skipped the elephant ride (the elephants are exhausted by the morning queue) and walked up. The Sheesh Mahal mirror-work is small, kept dark, and the guide lights one match to show you what it does.

The Pushkar lake is small, the ghats are old, and the priests at the main ghat will offer you a flower puja. Agree on the donation before, not after. The Brahma temple is up a flight of marble steps. The pilgrim crowd at sundown moves at one speed, and you settle into it.

Eklingji is the family temple of the Udaipur royals. 9th century, white marble, four-faced Shiva. No photography inside, and the puja runs to a strict timetable so check before you go. We caught the noon arati. The crowd was small, mostly Mewari families, and the priests were unhurried.

The boats leave from Rameshwar ghat and the route depends on the water level. In a dry year they skip Jagmandir. Ours stopped for fifteen minutes on the island, time enough to walk the colonnade. Coming back the City Palace lit up section by section as the sun dropped behind the Aravallis.