The Jagannath temple at Puri has its own clock. The koili baikuntha at the back, the kitchen that cooks for thousands every day, the Ananda Bazaar where prasad is sold by weight. Phones and cameras stay outside. The crowd thins just before the evening aarti, and the priests don't rush you.

Konark is a chariot in stone, twelve carved wheels, seven horses pulling. And the guide will spend a long time on the erotic friezes near the base. Most of the original tower is gone, fallen in the 18th century. What's left is still big enough that you walk around it twice before you've seen everything.

Mangalajodi is the bird end of Chilika lagoon. A fishing village that turned into a conservation success story, and now the old poachers run the boats. We were out before sunrise. Painted storks, godwits, and a pair of ruddy shelducks; the guide knew every one of them by their Odia names and their Latin ones.

The 64-yogini temple at Hirapur is a small open-air circle on the edge of Bhubaneswar. One of only four in the country. Each yogini gets her own niche, each with a different hairstyle, each holding a different attribute. There were two other visitors. The priest unlocked the gate and let us walk the full circle alone.