Sula was the first commercial winery in India. Rajeev Samant came back from Stanford in the 90s and planted Sauvignon Blanc on land his family already owned. The cellar tour ends in a tasting room overlooking the vines. Their Brut Tropicale is the surprise of the flight. The hills behind look like the dry parts of California.

Kailasa at Ellora is carved downward into a single basalt cliff. Not built, carved. Over a century starting in the 8th. The whole temple, with its courtyards and elephants and dwarapalas, came out of one rock. You walk down into it. The scale of what was removed is the part you can't quite take in.

Pench is Mowgli country. Kipling never came, but the forest is where he placed it. Our dawn safari heard a sambar deer bark from the bamboo on the left, which the guide said meant tiger nearby. We sat with the engine off for ten minutes. The tiger never showed. The bark stopped.

The last morning the train pulls into Mumbai around eight, and breakfast is served in the dining carriage as the city comes in through the windows. The crew already knows your order by day four. The check-out is small. They hand you a wooden train-token to remember it by. And the platform is short and quiet.