The Deccan Odyssey leaves from Delhi Cantonment, not New Delhi station, and the boarding is small. A red carpet, a tilak, and the suite numbers handed out by the train manager. We were in cabin 14. The double-bed suites are at the rear; the train pulls out of the city around six.

The Jaipur stop is long enough for Amber and the City Palace, and the train arranges its own jeeps. Amber is best from across Maota lake. The reflection is the photo. We skipped the elephants and walked up. The Sheesh Mahal mirror-work is small, kept dark, and the guide lights one match to show you what it does.

Zone 3 is the most photographed zone. Padam Talab and the old hunting pavilion where the Maharaja used to sit. The tigress we saw was Riddhi, fourth-generation of T-19. She walked the bund road in front of us for about ninety seconds, then disappeared into the lantana. Nobody breathed.

The Taj is best from the south gate at first light, before the busloads arrive. The train brings you in early and the guides know the trick. Straight through the front courtyard while the mosque is still in shadow. We had the central platform almost to ourselves for ten minutes. The marble is cooler than you think it will be.