Skip Seminyak. Skip the infinity pools that all look the same on a feed. The Bali worth flying for starts an hour north, where the road narrows and the temples outnumber the cafes.

Stay three nights in Ubud. Hire a driver. Go to Tirta Empul at sunrise, before the coach tours arrive. Eat where the locals eat; a warung, not a restaurant.

“The island rewards stillness. Book fewer things. Stay longer in each.”